Kirk Haworth, the owner and head chef of the east London restaurant Plates, hates the word vegan. “At least seeing the word on a menu,” he says. “Plant-based cooking is not a trend. Not for me, anyway. I’ve been doing it for eight years and it’s just in my soul now.” And yet this week, Haworth became the first UK chef to win a Michelin star for cooking only plant-based food.
Plates is small, with just 25 covers. There are two sittings but it is full until the end of April. The phone is always engaged, and they can only cope with reservations today and tomorrow. For everything else, send an email.