On a windswept late November evening at the edge of the waterfront in Helsinki’s Katajanokka harbour, a huge, new white building shines brightly in the wintery night sky, its curving, illuminated walls undulating like a giant concertina of corrugated card.
To one side, monolithic cruise ships destined for Stockholm or Tallinn, just across the Gulf of Finland, lie temporarily dormant, while to the other the grand, pastel-coloured, neoclassical palaces and municipal buildings of the Christmas market-filled Senate Square are a reminder of the city’s 19th-century past as part of the Russian empire.
