As flights to Thoothukudi, Tamil Nadu, descend to the airport, passengers by the window seat may get a glimpse of a farm with rows of glistening silver sheets. On land, the journey to the farm is through acres of arid land that in the height of summer cracks into deep fissures. But it is this hostile environment that is perfect for raising capers, the little flower buds that have long garnished Mediterranean and Italian cuisine.
For Srikant Suryanarayan and Fiona Arakal, this harsh landscape is home to Ishka Renewable Farms which they started in 2012. A parcel of 365 acres of fallow land is now producing organic capers that are not just being exported but are on the racks of high-end department stores and in the kitchens of world-class restaurants. They began selling their produce in batches in 2018.
