‘When you reach the top of the hill, you will see Bodrum. Don’t assume that you will leave as you came,’ wrote Cevat Şakir Kabaağaçlı, exiled here a century ago after a controversial article about condemned military deserters. As Halikarnas Balıkçısı, the Fisherman of Halicarnassus, he turned punishment into a lifelong attachment to the Aegean and helped inspire the Blue Voyage.
The advice still works. Keep moving, and do not mistake the peninsula for a single town.
