Economists call the uptick in affordable luxuries during recessions the lipstick index. In the current cost-of-living crisis, the omnipresence of caviar on London’s most Instagrammable menus might be called the egg effect. Or, being less charitable, the hun trap.
If there is a hun HQ of London restaurants, it is Kensington’s Jacuzzi (94 Kensington High Street, W8, bigmammagroup.com) whose frothy name alone conjures up a fantasy of knocking back prosecco in a hot tub. There are disco balls in the loos, knickers in picture frames on the walls and, on the menu, a mozzarella and burrata pizza garnished with 10g of caviar (£34), best washed down with half a bottle of lambrusco.
