Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆
Ruth’s? They should have called it déjà vu. Here is a restaurant fused from fragments of other places into a kind of crooked whole. It is a British bistro with the paint job of the French House, the playlist of Noisy Oyster and a Cocteau-ish logo, possibly chipped off the wall at Goodbye Horses. Even the washed-out Instagram looks lifted from Bistro Freddie. You and I have eaten here before. Two years ago, Hackney. Or was it Notting Hill?
