
The region of Maremma offers a vision of Italy at its most ‘Arcadian’
A region of low hills, ancient forests and untamed beaches, Maremma, in southern Tuscany, offers a vision of Italy at its most “Arcadian”, said Laura Rysman in The New York Times. It was once notorious for its malarial marshes, but they were drained in the 16th century on the orders of Fernando I de’ Medici. Today it is known for its butteri, cowboys who ride indigenous horses – the “wide-torsoed” Maremmano breed. Theirs is a venerable equestrian tradition, stretching back, some say, to the Etruscans. At Tenuta di Alberese, a farm in the Parco della Maremma, experienced riders can accompany them as they herd “lyre-horned” Maremmana cattle. But there’s easier riding on offer in the region too, and plenty more to do, from hiking to canoeing and birdwatching.