Landing in Palermo is dramatic: steep cliff faces all around you, flecked with green prickly pears and, on the brink of autumn, dense shrub in scattered shades of yellow.
I wish I’d had at least a month to explore Sicily, which you’d need to get even a sense of the varied landscape and charm of each part of the island — the snow-white salt flats of Trapani, the faded majesty and mythical churches of Noto and Ragusa, the mountain wilds of Niscosia, the ancient ruins of Agrigento.
