The queue snaking out of a graffitied Victorian terraced house at 119 Bethnal Green Road is the clearest sign you’ve arrived at London’s newest and most talked-about burger joint. ‘This is the place where people queue two hours for a burger,’ I hear passersby mutter, eyeing the crowd with a mix of disbelief and envy (we all know they’ll be back tomorrow). The real question isn’t who has time to queue for so long, but rather: how has Dumbo managed to win over first an audience of hungry Parisians and, now, Londoners already spoiled for choice when it comes to sating their fast-food cravings?
