
Picture the scene: a couple out for their weekly “date night” at that new brasserie at the top of the shopping mall. It has a large glass frontage embellished with gold lettering, sweeping pink banquettes, low-hanging, glowing bulbs emitting effervescent light, and swathes of leafy foliage in Oliver Bonas pots. Look closely and you’ll see most of the plants are plastic. Radiohead just came on.
Bruschetta is already on the table, and burrata has been ordered. Of course it has. What else, in 2023? The world is burning; burrata is as ubiquitous as game show Les Dennis in the Nineties.