Why hadn't I ever been skiing before, I wondered, gazing out onto the exquisite panorama of the Alpe di Siusi, the largest alpine meadow in Europe — a vision like something from a Swiss chocolate advert.
I thought it was dangerous, too expensive, a hassle. I don't like the cold. I don't get that many holidays. I'd rather be on a sunny beach. And the people — have you ever heard people in loud braying voices discussing their skiing holidays, madly boasting and name-dropping? Ninth circle of hell stuff. But my son went with his school, loved it, and begged us to go as a family. Guess what? We all loved it.
We flew into Verona and took the scenic route by train through the mountains to Siusi, where we checked into Romantik Turm, a beautiful turreted hotel nestled in a centuries-old alpine village at the foot of the Schlern mountain in the World Heritage Dolomites. The building dates to the 13th century and was once a defence fortification, courthouse and jail. Inside, medieval architecture collides pleasingly with a fresh modern feel with white walls and exposed beams.
The Pramstrahler family, who have owned the hotel for three generations, are serious art lovers; the place is festooned with around 2,000 works including pieces by Kokoschka, Klimt and Picasso. You could spend several delightful hours just wandering around — it really is a quite incredible collection.
Meals are taken in bright dining rooms in the modern style, which have large windows that offer views of the imposing Sciliar Massif. Or, if you are on a romantic trip, you might prefer to dine in the the medieval Tyrolean Stuben parlors. One night when we were there, one of the parlors was dedicated to the most incredible cheeses, chutneys and biscuits, the other one was a strudel den with endless homemade versions to choose from. The fun and friendly waiters and waitresses are dressed in lederhosen and the atmosphere really is magical.
The food is all delicious and highly creative and interesting without at any point straying into the dreaded nouvelle cuisine. If you want a schnitzel and chips or a plate of tagliatelle ragu, it’s all there among the more gourmet options. Stefan Pramstrahler, who leads the kitchen, is known for his creative approach and his modern take on traditional South Tyrolean cuisine. The hotel’s cellar boasts wines from some of the world’s most celebrated wineries as well as great local options.
Breakfast is a joy and every table receives the Romantik Turm daily newspaper sharing stories of the staff, a weather report and details of guided excursions plus a bit of history of the area. It’s a lovely touch and typical of the generous homespun feel of the hotel.
The spa is dotted around seductive nooks: a traditional hay sauna, a glass-fronted sauna with mountain views, steam rooms and a full treatment menu. My favourite moment of each day was Antonio's 5pm 'Mystik Sauna' — scents, ambient music, a towel-beating ritual that made us all feel we were in a very pleasant Saharan storm. Afterwards we jumped into the outdoor salt pool. Heaven. Being Europe, nudity is the done thing, which for a Brit is obviously excruciating, so I sat there primly in my towel.
There's also a deliciously hot jacuzzi that leads to a cooler outdoor pool where they light fires in the evenings so you can watch the sun set on the mountains. A state-of-the-art gym and a spectacular climbing wall complete the picture. It's a very special place.
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Back to the skiing. Every day we took the number 2 bus from outside the hotel to the cable cars at the bottom of the mountains. God, it was frightening as the cable cars swayed up the mountains, I had to force myself to open my eyes. Once there we rented boots skis and hats and all enrolled in the ski school where the instructors and the other students were a delight. Apparently there are gorgeous cosy Alpine restaurants decorated in furs serving traditional South Tyrolean fare but I didn’t manage to graduate to the slopes so couldn’t discover them.
Did I like the skiing itself? Yes, I did. My boots were agony, my skiing socks stopped my blood and it was oddly demoralising that I was by far the worst in my group, but it was incredibly beautiful and hopefully next time when I’m not starting completely from scratch I’ll be braver. I was grateful when the lessons ended each day and couldn’t have managed more than three days of it, but I did enjoy it and would like to do it again. The children loved it and are both natural skiers and my husband is much better than me.
I’d also love to go back and stay in the hotel in the summer for a walking trip so we can hike in the meadow where we skied and swim in the pristine alpine lakes.
I can’t wait.
Romantik Hotel Turm, a member of Belvita Leading Wellness Hotels, offers rooms from £136 per night, based on two people sharing on a half-board basis. Belvita.it
