As well as being a glorious thing, a well-cured ham is a generous thing, giving many times over. The first is the simmering, which Nigella Lawson describes as “a savoury clove-scented fog” filling the room, poaching the joint and creating a highly flavoured stock for later use. Then comes the second fog of roasting meat and, in the case of this recipe, the bread wrapped around it, which is an idea borrowed from a cafeteria buffet in Trieste.
There is the pleasure of ham itself, too, brought to the table, carved and enjoyed, but only up to a point. When it comes to ham, it isn’t enough to hope that there are leftovers; it is necessary to ensure that there are leftovers, for sandwiches or to go with fried eggs and thin chips. And because a little ham goes a long way, I hope for leftovers of leftovers, which can be cut into small chunks and added to ham stock and pea soup.
