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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
David Ellis

EXPLAINED: Roe wood wharf can the fallow boys do it again - The Real Truth

The Fallow boys are a phenomenon. The three of them — chefs Jack Croft, 31, and Will Murray, 32, and chairman-fixer-bit-of-everything James Robson, 50 — have amassed something like their own cult. A cult glued to the TikTok recipes (how to scramble eggs like a chef? An easy 7.1 million views), the Instagram posts (231,000 fans and counting) and a YouTube channel which, with 385,000 subscribers, makes Fallow the most followed restaurant in the world. Then there’s real life: the place itself, in St James’s, is open from breakfast till supper seven days a week, and packs out every service; they reckon they feed about four-and-a-half thousand diners a week. Naturally, there’s a line of merch — sriracha sauce, posters, £45 T-shirts.

But such framing does the trio a disservice. Fallow isn’t a jumped-up fad restaurant slinging the internet’s latest obsession at inflated prices. It’s not about McDonald’s burgers given a posh-over or sandwiches that “drop” on a Monday morning. No-one trickles salt down their arms. Instead, it’s made a name for its modern British cooking and conscious approach to sustainability. Those T-shirts? The cotton is blended with seaweed. The hit dish? A cod’s head — the part most places ignore. Another head — this time of a chicken, bursting through the lid of a pie — landed them headlines in Australia, and bewilderment from the Loose Women. And now, five years in, they’re hoping they can do it all again; more of the same, only different.

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