
It’s just shy of 7pm on a Tuesday evening and I’m about to do the unthinkable (lug open the door to a fitness studio) when I bump into a friend who’s practically sprinting up Bermondsey Street. ‘Just on my way to try to get into Flour & Grape, again!’ Babs pants on his way past, as I contemplate giving up, buying a gout stool and joining him.
It’s the third time in two weeks someone has mentioned this unassuming fresh pasta restaurant with glossy-eyed adoration. Though all of them had the same gripe: apparently, it’s impossible to get a table. Why, however, is not immediately clear. All the signs that usually lead to a fizzing, zeitgeisty London restaurant point the other way. It’s been open since 2017, the prices are average, it’s had no major reviews, and besides the cute littlewindow where you can see the team makingfresh pasta, it hardly seems ’grammable. Nevertheless, the endless quest for delicious carbohydrates must go on, and so I’m obliged to investigate. Besides, after those (*checks notes*) three push-ups, I’ve earned it, surely?