
I adore tableside service. There are the furtive glances between diners as the cook or server partakes in the cooking, pouring or presentation; the formality of it and the way the guests sit up in their chairs in expectation; the perma-smile often plastered on everyone's faces (even if the service actually goes a bit too long and a bit of fatigue is creeping through); the repeated "thank you's."
The extra layer helps to mark the moment — which might take as little as 90 seconds — as something that is exciting, rare and little special.