When Karla Zazueta was growing up, her family would make a big batch of pinto beans every Monday, and it’s a tradition she continues to this day. “I don’t know a Mexican who doesn’t eat beans at least once a day,” says the author of Nortena, and for her that starts with frijoles de la olla, or beans from the pot. “Soak dried beans for two hours, then drain and transfer to a large pan. Add fresh water, a peeled and halved onion, two or three garlic cloves and epazote, a Mexican herb [although bay leaves would do the job, too].” Simmer, covered, for 45 minutes, then garnish with chopped onion, coriander, cheese and spicy salsa or chopped jalapeños. Later in the week, fry the beans for a Mexican breakfast (“an essential side”) or turn them into a sauce for enfrijoladas: “They’re a bit like enchiladas, but the juicy beans are turned into a runny sauce to drench corn tortillas in.” Mashed black beans, meanwhile, give quesadillas a nice bit of texture, or follow Meera Sodha’s lead and blend them with a few tablespoons of bean liquid, chipotle and salt to make an excellent base for tacos.
For Anna Tobias, chef-owner of Cafe Deco in London, meanwhile, it’s black-eye beans that deserve more love: “Sweat an onion with garlic, then add paprika, half a tin of tomatoes, the beans and a bay leaf for good measure, then bake.” That topped with a boiled egg will see you right or, “for a proper dinner”, dunk in a couple of sausages and serve with a side of greens.
