The Yesnaby cliffs, where waves dash themselves against rock, are also home to quieter natural delights. Turning one’s back to the drama of the sea, one can find – in an otherwise unremarkable patch of boggy ground – an outpost of one of Orkney’s rarest floral residents: the Scottish primrose. It’s a minutely detailed little wildflower, with heart-shaped petals of mauve and gold. The whole plant, roots and all, could fit inside a teacup.
Scottish primroses grow only in a few remote spots along the north coast of Scotland. Finding them is a matter of local knowledge. Earlier this summer, I found this colony after following very specific instructions to park in a particular passing place, and take so many steps south. A treasure hunt, with this tiny posy as my prize. Then I came to admire their first flowering. Now I hope to catch the final inflorescence of the year.