I’ve been developing today’s recipe for almost 20 years, since setting up my festival cafe, Poco, in 2004. Over the years, the recipe has evolved. Now we ferment it, which keeps it safe to eat without refrigeration – a limited resource in a field kitchen. As well as preserving the food, lacto-fermentation has also had the benefit of improving the flavour, adding complexity and umaminess.
This recipe is an effective way of preserving a glut of super-ripe, extra-flavourful tomatoes, or turning unripe, flavourless tomatoes into something delicious. Now they are in season, keep your eyes peeled for bargain bags of ripe tomatoes at the market.