A bowl of warm white beans screams comfort to me. I start by gently poaching garlic in extra-virgin olive oil until it smells fragrant, then add the beans and whatever flavours I feel like – chilli, herbs, or something tangy, such as capers. What I eat with my beans depends on my mood: slow-cooked rabbit, spatchcocked chicken, a whole roast fish or griddled vegetables. The salsa here makes a gutsy, fiery dressing to accompany griddled leeks.