Colour equals flavour, thanks to a process known as the Maillard reaction, which occurs when proteins and sugars are transformed by the application of heat. For this reason, “you always want to sear meat before putting it in a pan or into the oven”, says Charlie Crote, head chef of the Midland Grand Dining Room in London. “This builds a crust on the outside, and firms up the meat [in a good way].” It’s worth noting, though, that this simple technique is all about flavour; it’s sometimes said that browning meat also seals in the juices, but that’s simply not true.
First up, you need a really hot pan. “Leave it on a high flame for a couple of minutes,” says Skye Gyngell, chef-patron of Spring in London, and culinary director of Heckfield Place in Hampshire, “until you see a gentle smoke rise from the centre of the pan.” Then add oil – extra-virgin olive oil in Gyngell’s case, vegetable or sunflower for Crote – and swirl it around so the pan is evenly coated. Next, generously season the meat, which should be at room temperature and as dry as possible (moisture is your enemy here), with sea salt and black pepper: “If you do this any earlier,” Crote says, “it will draw out the moisture, which means, when you put the meat in the pan, it will just have a layer of moisture on the outside and will boil rather than sear.” It’s only once any excess moisture has evaporated that the meat can start to brown.
